If I am not in this movie it is going to be super stupid.
Tuesday, August 22, 2017
Wednesday, August 16, 2017
|$500,000 Current Value-Yeah Right Scam|
Watch out everyone there is a huge scam out now with collectables and antiques. This is super bad right now with artificial price inflation.
Apparently, they are saying that X-Men #1 is now valued at a Half Million Dollars! Yeah right, and Action Comics #1 is at $2.1 Million Dollars..yeah right!
This is probably people trying price fix the collectables market by raising the prices of collectables and getting people to buy them or something.
X-Men #1...no way can you get $500,000 for that. If I had to guess I would say maybe $20,000 would be a real value for X-Men #1.
The thing is how may people with that much money would even read the Uncanny X-Men.
Yeah like millionaires read the X-Men at all and when they do they pay $500,000 dollars for it. Bullshit they do, If I was a millionaire I'd give you like $20 Grand , that's twenty thousand max. After that it's not worth it, yeah like a millionaire would want that comic anyway when they are super busy doing millionaire stuff.
That's just a childhood fantasy that you can never get an X-Men #1 because they are $500,000. No one would ever believe that who is not a kid that millionaires pay that much for comics. I say $20 Grand Max.
Here is that scam when you buy something Antique or Collectable like a rare comic book are they saying it's a 9.8 out of 10 Grade by 1963 Mint Condition or 2017 Mint Condition.
That X-Men #1 is NOT a 9.8/10 by today's standards because all the 10/10 or "mint" condition they call it are Super High Glossy Material. So a "Mint" Comic today is way better quality that a "mint" comic from 1963.
Of course they may account for this, but not ever under regular conditions. Yeah Marvel Comics may grade it when it's going to $500,000 as mint but compared to a new comic today the thing looks like crap.
So a "mint condition" comic today is a 10/10.....it's super high gloss. Now compare that to X-Men #1 from 1963...it looks like crap...probably a 0/10. It's just rare.
So when you look at all the old Comics they are NOT MINT CONDITION by today's standards. If you compared them to Comics today they would be a 0/10 and worthless.
So X-Men #1 could never get $500,000 based on today's modern comics because they are all in such bad condition. That's because they are not mint based on todays super high gloss comics.
So, I'd say X-Men #1 is like $20 Grand compared to today's condition grading system. That's because they are so run down it's not "mint" it's just rare.
When they say X-Men #1 is Mint 9.8/10 Condition from 1963 or whatever they mean BY ITSELF.
They only mean that copy is 9.8 to itself NOT compared to today's grading system. It's based on what the individual comic looks like and they compare it to OTHER X-Men #1's or other comics from the time period...like Action Comics #1 or something big.
They don't meant 9.8 compared to today's high quality comics, they mean from stuff back then. ALL OF IT is in terrible condition, they mean 9.8/10 for stuff that is all in bad condition.
Then they try and see how much they can get at auction or whatever based on it's rarity.
Tip: NEVER SAY MINT CONDITION TODAY IS THAT SAME AS MINT CONDITION IN 1963. If you do you are stupid, antiques and modern collectables are on different grading systems.
A brand new comic in 1963 would look like CRAP compared to a brand new comic made today.
Then this is where the scam super gets you...it's with other Collectable and Antique dealers of smaller value items.
When they say a Mint Condition Comic or Collectable is worth $3000, they may mean ONLY IN YOUR LOCAL AREA.
In California or somewhere the same collectable could be worth $200 because it's in a different collectable market.That's because a Mint Condition item in your local are may be considered in "poor" condition somewhere else and be worthless.
That's where Collectable and Antique sellers get you. They know that you usually CAN'T check the other items to see what a Mint Condition is in a better Collectable Marketplace and they get you on the "local" price.
So you think you bought a mint condition $3000 collectable but in California in a better market the mint condition grade in your local area got a 1/10 or 0 in California and is only worth $200 there.
So you CAN'T TRUST the grading systems for "Mint Condition" locally from shop to shop because they all MAY BE ON DIFFERENT GRADING SYSTEMS.
So a Mint Condition in Nova Scotia for a collectable may be in Poor Condition in California or somewhere.
You don't know this when you are shopping for collectables because you can't check both local markets.
That's because when you look up the value on the internet it says $3000, but you can't check to see if the Collectable or Antique is the same $3000 value like it is in California or somewhere.
The thing may look nice but it's actually only worth $200 based on the real grading system in California or somewhere. The seller just makes it super shiny and hopes they get the $3000 and says it's Mint. You don't know it's in Nova Scotia Mint Condition or California Mint Condition.
A $3000 Mint Collectable in Nova Scotia may only be worth $200 in California Mint Condition, by you can't check yourself and you can't tell by pictures on the internet because you can't really see them item for real.
This is how prices are determined in the Antique and Collectable market, because the final price is OPEN ENDED.
The price of the item will be determined on discussions based on it's quality when people all agree and are willing to pay the price.
So Mint here in Nova Scotia may not be Mint in California, but they still try and get $3000 for it. That's because a lot of people don't understand how the Collectable price was set.
Here is how you would handle this is a Collectable shop, you say..."I see that you have an Antique Table for sale and are asking $3000 and the ticket says Mint Condition. Is that Mint Condition locally or in California?"...If the seller doesn't know then you are probably being scammed!
The only way to actually know the real value is if you have seen HUNDREDS of examples of the same table in ACTUAL mint condition, then when you see it in an antique shop then you will know it's REAL value.
|Is this in Nova Scotia Mint Condition or California Mint Condition?|
Now this is a long and tedious process but the ONLY way to actually know it the $3000 Antique or Collectable is worth the asking price is when you want to buy the Antique table you need to RESEARCH the table extensively and look at hundreds of examples before you spend your $3000.
That way when you go to spend your $3000 on a specific Antique table you have seen what they look like in real mint condition before you go and buy one. Then when you buy the table you will know what an actual certain type of Antique table looks like in mint condition and that it is actually worth $3000 in the REAL Antique market not the local one where they just varnish it and try and get $3000.
That's because a real table may have to be restored a specific way in a professional workshop specific to that item.
A real restored Antique Table worth $3000 may have to be done in a special workshop to get the value to be $3000. If the person who restored it didn't have the proper knowledge or workshop the table may be worthless.
Here's how...if the person who restored the table didn't have the proper tools or workshop when they restored the table they may have sanded it or used the wrong finish and RUINED THE WOOD GRAIN.
Then when you look at a REAL RESTORATION the wood grain and original conditions of the table were preserved and then it's worth $3000.
The other one the people may have went out and bought it for $1500 and then sanded it in a fake workshop that's not real and has no real restoration tools and then ruined the wood grain or over sanded it...on top of that you may not even supposed to be sanding it at all and may need chemicals to remove the old varnish.
Then they sanded it and varnished it with the wrong tools in a fake workshop and now it's totally worthless because they sanded the wood too much and ruined it with the wrong finish.
Now it's worth $0.
Then you go into their antique shop and it's got a $3000 dollar price tag on it because that's what it says on the internet, but really it's valueless.
The only way to know is to choose the Antique Table you want first, look at hundreds of examples and research it to find out everything you can so then when you spend your $3000 you know you got the ACTUAL Table in ACTUAL Mint condition and not got ripped off by a "local" grading system where the table is totally ruined and you wasted your money.
Finally on top of that, the scam today is everyone is trying to over charge old items by selling them at super high prices in a group.
So they get a bunch of collectables and all ask ten times the actual amount to try and inflate the price and drive up the market value of the collectables.
So you look before at the items were $20 and then one day on the internet everyone is asking $300 per item.
This is a scam. Then when no one wants their stuff at that price it goes back to $20 next year.
That's all over the internet now and I see that in Comic Collectable and Music Collectables. They raise the price trying to inflate the market and no one will buy it because they know it's really NOT worth that much, then a lot of the "rare" items are actually not rare they are end runs at factories and cancelled products.
Then people in the market try and say they are rare when they are garbage and charge a super high price for them just to see if they can get it....usually they can't unless someone just wants to buy it anyway.
That's the big scam going on right now all over the place so just make sure to do research when you are buying collectables and antiques.
Monday, August 14, 2017
My personal favorite that I will now get is Arbor Day.
Arbor Day is a State Holiday in Nebraska that will now be observing here in Halifax and was on April 28 this year and I missed it. I will be looking forward to Arbor Day 2018 next year to get started.
Today is also a Holiday in the United States in Rhode Island and it is Victory Day.
Even though Canada probably did all the work and really won whatever Victory they are referencing in Rhode Island I will be celebrating Victory Day will them today in Rhode Island.
It's super great to have new Holidays now here in Nova Scotia from the United States for myself to celebrate to go along with our regular Nova Scotia and Canada Holidays.
This will make for a busy year of great Holiday fun having both Canada and United States Holidays here in Nova Scotia at my house.
This is the list of United States Holidays I will now be observing here in Nova Scotia at my house:
Lee Jackson Day- Virginia
Martin Luther King Jr Day
Robert E Lee's Birthday - Alabama, Arkansas
State Holiday - Mississippi
Idaho Human Rights Day- Idaho
Civil Right's Day - Arizona, New Hampshire
Robert E Lee's Birthday - Florida
State Holiday - Texas
Inauguration Day - DC, LA, MD, VA
National Freedom Day
National Wear Red Day
Rosa Parks Day - California, Ohio
Lincoln's Birthday - CT, IL, MO, NY
Statehood Day - Arizona
Susan B Anthony's Birthday - CA, FL, NY, WI
Elizabeth Peratrovich Day - Alaska
President's Day - Federal Holiday
Texas Independence Day - Texas
Read Across America Day
Employee Appreciation Day
Town Meeting Day - Vermont
Evacuation Day - Massachusetts
Maryland Day - Maryland
Seward's Day - Alaska
April 2 / April 3:
Pascua Florida Day
National Tartan Day
National Library Worker's Day
Thomas Jefferson's Birthday
April 16 / 17:
Emancipation Day - District of Columbia
Patriot's Day - Maine, Massachusetts
Confederate Memorial Day - Alabama, Florida
State Holiday - Georgia, Mississippi
State Holiday - Florida
Take Our Daughters and Sons to Work Day
Arbor Day - Nebraska - This is my favorite of my new Holidays.
Loyalty Day / Law Day
Rhode Island Independence Day
National Nurses Day
Truman Day - Missouri
Confederate Memorial Day - North Carolina
State Holiday - South Carolina
Military Spouse Appreciation Day
Armed Forces Day
National Maritime Day
Jefferson Davis Birthday - Mississippi
Statehood Day - Kentucky, Tennessee
Jefferson Davis Birthday - Florida
Emancipation Day - Texas
West Virginia Day
American Eagle Day
Pioneer Day - Utah
Coast Guard Birthday
Purple Heart Day
Victory Day Rhode Island
Bennington Battle Day - Vermont
Statehood Day In Hawaii
National Aviation Day
California Admission Day
National Grandparents Day
Air Force Birthday
Constitution and Citizenship Day
Emancipation Day - Ohio
Election Day - New Jersey, Virginia
**This is the Big Store Sale 's Stuff for Great Shopping Savings**
President's Day - New Mexico
State Holiday - Georgia
Lincolns Birthday / Lincoln's Day - Indiana, West Virginia
Pearl Harbor Remembrance Day
Wright Brothers Day
These are the new Holidays that will now be celebrated here in Halifax, Nova Scotia at my house.
*Make special note of not one but TWO Thanksgivings and extra shoppings days at my house.
Tuesday, August 1, 2017
Here are a few Extreme Metal Drum Tips to help tighten your songs up.
Not specifically referring to Nile in the above video, but when your playing music like this at these speeds your Extreme Metal Drumming can start to get sloppy and you can lose BPM's if you don't use the proper Extreme Metal Drumming Techniques.
Here are some tips to help tighten up your drumming and get those sick blast beats out in perfect time and not lose speed while your playing your songs.
This is something that I would do when playing music and maybe it will help you get your BPM's up and tighten up that loose sound in your Extreme Metal Drumming.
For the example we'll start with something basic in Extreme Metal Drumming that anyone can practice, feel free to use these beats in your songs or whatever else you want.
We'll start out will something Nile would use in Extreme Metal Drumming to get started.
I'll try to get this accurate but it's just an example, if you can think of a better beat to practice with just use yours with the technique listed below.
Starting with the standard 320 BPM Blast Beat and we'll be switching to the basic 280 BPM Down Beat or BPM 280 Up beat.
To get the idea of what I'm saying for Extreme Metal Drumming first these exercises will help you get your BPM's up for your Extreme Metal Blast Beats and Extreme Metal Up Beats and Down Beats.
Set your metronome to 320 BPM and practice along with the Double Kick Blast Beat. Try to keep this going as long as you can in intervals of 1 Minute. This way you will know what a 320 BPM Double Kick Blast Beat sounds like.
Do this all the time, practice the 320 BPM Double Kick Blast Beat for 1 Minute at a time along with the metronome. Make sure the Double Kick Blast beat is exactly 320 BPM for 1 Minute.
This is a good way to get you drum speed up.
After you practice this a lot you will know what a 320 BPM Double Kick Blast Beat sounds like.
Important: Make sure that the last beat in the 320 BPM Double Kick Blast Beat is always the Kick Pedal.
When you are practicing ALWAYS end on the kick drum. That's for this example. Make sure the kick drum is the last beat when your are playing the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320.
Then practice the down beat and the up beat at like 180 the same way.
This exercise is for switching between the Double Kick Blast beat at 320 BPM to the Down Beat at 280 BMP, or the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 BPM to the up Beat at 280 BPM.
After you practice getting those beats down at the proper BPM's try this example of switching between the 320 Double Kick Blast Beat and the Down Beat or Up Beat at 280.
This exercise will help your tighten your Extreme Metal Drumming and help build your drum speed.
Here is where a lot of drummers fall off on their BPM's during Extreme Metal Drum songs.
When you are playing your song at 320 and you switch to 280 you are missing BPM's during changes in the Guitar Riff.
This can be extremely frustrating for drummers practicing keeping their proper timing and BPM's during playing a song with other band members.
You spend all that time practicing and then when you play live you went for a 320 to 280 time change like in Nile or something and during the change in the guitar riff your 320 and 280 BPM's fell short and you only got like 317 to 268 or something because you didn't use the proper technique to change between the 320 to 280.
You were probably also the only one at the concert that this happened to and everyone else had perfect drums.
To avoid this embarrassment practice this exercise going from the 320 BPM Double Kick Blast Beat to the 280 Down Beat.
For the duration of the guitar riff play the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 BPM, Always end on the kick drum.
Switch immediately into the Down Beat and Play at 280 BPM.
Don't use a roll or fill to change beats this just makes your BPM's more sloppy when practicing.
Switch immediately from 320 to 280 going from the Double Kick Blast Beat to Down Beat with no fills.
End at 320 on the kick and start right into the down beat at 280 BPM.
This will make your drumming super tight! Make sure that you have practiced the beats and know what a 320 Double Kick Blast Beat sounds like and a 280 Down Beat sounds like or you will look stupid.
There's nothing worse than switching from a 320 Double Kick Blast Beat into a 280 Down Beat or Up Beat and missing a beat on the riff change. This makes you look super stupid.
By the time the riff was over you went from a 320 Double Kick Blast Beat into a 279 Down Beat. Terrible!
This is the worst event to ever happen in the life of an Extreme Metal Drummer.
Here is the full example:
Play the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 BPM and end on the Kick, then go right into the Down Beat at 280 BPM making sure you hit every beat.
Try playing the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 BPM and then end on the Kick and go right into the Up Beat at 280.
Practicing these two example will help get your drum speed up and tighten up you drumming and it also sounds super awesome on a record!
Remember, when you're playing the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 BPM end on the KICK drum, THEN go right into the Down Beat at 280 BPM with no fills.
Then do the same from the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 BPM to the Up Beat at 280 BPM with no fills making sure that the Blast Beat is exactly 320 and the Down Beat or Up Beat is exactly 280.
Just try with no rolls or fills to help get your speed up and tighten your drumming, these Extreme Metal Drum Beats also sounds great in songs.
Make sure when you are playing that your Double Kick Blast Beat is exactly in 320 from practicing all the time to the metronome and always end on the Kick.
Also practice the Up Beat and Down Beat a lot at 280 so that when you play a song you know your are in 320 and 280 for the riff parts.
Then practice changing from the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 to the Down Beat at 280 and from the Double Kick Blast Beat at 320 to the Up Beat at 280, always end your double kick blast beat at 320 on the kick for these examples.
This will sound great in your Extreme Metal Music and make your Extreme Metal Drumming super tight.